Touring Tasmania - Family History?
November 27, 2006Hobart — Friday 17th Nov. Another day spent at break-neck pace trying to make sure that we saw as much as possible. We headed over to Bruny Island today – the site of Captain Cook’s landing on January 26, 1777. After a short drive out of Hobart to Kettering (around 40km) you need to catch a ferry for a 30-minute crossing.
The highlight of the ferry trip was the sighting of a pair of dolphins following along side the ferry out in the channel. Unfortunately, the camera was in the car and by the time we retrieved it, the dolphins were no longer following. Nobody was too fussed about missing the photo—it was a thrill just to see them swim past.
Bruny Island was a gorgeous spot. There are great views out to the ocean and unspoilt beaches following the coastline. The isthmus, connecting the North and South of Bruny has a lookout with spectacular views to both the east and west. Unfortunately, it was a little early in the day to see the penguins, who apparently arrive at shore here on dusk.
While we were at Adventure Bay, I managed to twist everyone’s arm into going for a walk out to Grass Point. It ended up being a 1.5hr walk there and back. After spending nearly a week in the car, it was great to stretch the legs and get the blood pumping a bit harder. It also gives you a greater feeling of connectedness with the surroundings, allowing you to soak in the atmosphere.
We had to cut short our visit of Bruny because we’d arranged to have dinner with an old friend of the family who owns and runs a restaurant and pizza shop in Huonville. It was great to catch-up with them, although they were really busy and couldn’t spend much time with us. If you’re down this way, pop into Tower Pizza and tell Michael and Jenny I sent you. They make a great pizza (unbiased opinion)!
When we arrived back at the house, we decided to take a short walk down to the beach. It’s such a clear and bright night, and we lost all sense of the time. The kids played in the sand, chased the waves back and forth and collected shells. It was after 9pm when we left to head for a warm fire and cup of tea, warn out from another long day.
Touring Tasmania - Convict Coastline
November 26, 2006TASMANIA — Thursday 16th Nov. We toured the Convict Trail today — from Hobart to Port Arthur, stopping along the way to check out the views of the rugged coastline and windswept beaches. The scenery is breathtaking, and the geological formations of Tasman’s Gate, Devil’s Kitchen and the Blowhole illustrate the raw power of the ocean, and provide a welcome diversion from the drive.
Port Arthur provides a fascinating insight into Australian history and of convict life. The grounds of Port Arthur are so beautiful … soaring cliffs, dense forests and the lush green grounds, leading to the foreshore and cove. The bay heading straight out to the southern ocean with no land between it and the ice packs of Antarctica. Such a contrast to the brutal and harsh conditions endured by convicts and early settlers. We stayed on the grounds until a little after closing time and with the sun in the sky and a gently breeze—perhaps quite strangely given the history of this place–I found it such a tranquil and peaceful place. I’ve heard other people’s experience of this place has been profound; moving; compelling. I feel a little strange that my experience was so different.
Fatigue is starting to set in. Everyone is starting to get tired of the frantic pace of our schedule and the kids are starting to get a bit irritable. But, we’re all soldiering on. There’ll be plenty of time to rest when we get home. Which will be soon. This week has already gone so quickly and before we know it we’ll be back home and back into our daily routines, and planning our next adventure.
Touring Tasmania - East Coast Cruising
November 25, 2006TASMANIA — Wednesday 15th Nov. Another long day, most of it spent behind the wheel. We drove up the East Coast as far as Bicheno, a solid three hours driving from where we are staying.
It’s a fairly easy drive from Hobart. The roads are good and there is generally very little traffic to contend with, although I’ve got to say, I’ve encountered some of the worst drivers I’ve ever seen whilst we’ve been here. Remedial! The windy roads and undulating hills played havoc on one of my nephews and there were quite a few quick pull over stops on the way there and on the way back. Poor kid just hasn’t travelled well at all.
The thing that strikes me about the East Coast, aside from the natural beauty of the coastline, aqua-blue waters and white sandy beaches, is just how remote it is. Most of the small towns on coast like Swansea, Coles Bay and Bicheno are at least two hours away from any major towns (Hobart or Launceston). I guess that’s part of the attraction – this area is unspoilt and not over crowded, although I imagine that it would be a popular holiday destination for Taswegians.
The East Coast is a beautiful area, but to truly appreciate it you need to spend a lot more time to take it all in. I’d really love to go back and spend some time cycling, hiking, and camping around the area in order to really experience it. A whistle-stop day trip just doesn’t do it justice.
At Bicheno, I spoke with a cyclist, who’d stopped at the Bakery for lunch. I asked him how is ride was and how long he’d been on the road. He had ridden 40kms from St Helens and was set to return on a round trip after coffee and cake. Sounds like a fantastic way to see the area. I’m having bike withdrawal symptoms.
We were a little disappointed that there are not more road-side outlets for fresh seafood etc. The tourist brochures really sell the area as a gourmet food, seafood and wine region, and although we managed to get some fresh oysters and mussels and a bottle of wine, the area didn’t offer the unlimited choice of produce that we were expecting.
Donna is cooking dinner. Fresh oysters for entrée and a Jamie Oliver inspired mussel spaghetti for main. The kids will have a little of the same. I’m having risotto (mushroom, spinach and pine nuts). I feel guilty, or perhaps selfish, sometimes for making the choice to be a vegetarian. Everyone, particularly Donna, goes out of their way to make sure that I am catered for. It’s nice, and I really appreciate it, but I don’t want to be a burden.
We experienced crazy weather again today. 8c maximum – the coldest November day in 40 years. We were extremely lucky though. For most of the day it was dry and the sun managed to break through the clouds. At one stage heading into Swansea, it actually began to sleet … the closest I’ve come to seeing snow in Australia. Mostly, it was cold but fine, with the occasional shower or two on the drive home.
Touring Tasmania - On The Road
November 24, 2006HOBART — Tuesday 14th Nov.  It’s been another busy day. It’s late now—nearly 10:00pm, and I’m probably too tired to attempt the task of recollecting my thoughts, but I have to keep going.
It’s been raining on and off since we arrived yesterday, and the forecast for tomorrow is 10c with rain, thunderstorms and snow at higher levels. Hobart had bushfires three weeks ago! Despite the cold snap, we’re determined not to let the inclement weather stop of from doing the things we wanted to do and to see what we had planned.
We drove the Huon trail today, around a 200km round trip from where we are staying. It doesn’t sound a long way, but the roads are steep and over the mountain range out of Hobart twist and turn through the valley. The old cliché about the roads in Tasmania being windy is certainly close to the mark. The roads are pretty good though. They are sealed and quite wide. Perfect for holiday cruising.
Just outside of Huonville, the funniest thing happened. Donna and I were travelling in front in our red Mitsubishi Lancer hire car, and Donna’s sister and her family following in a grey Nissan X-trail. We were travelling in a convoy, as you usually do when you tour with others, keeping an eye on the car behind and in-front. At some point, we must have both taken our eyes of each other. I assumed that they were behind us, because there was a grey 4wd in the rear vision mirror. As it turns out, it was not them, it was a Toyota Hilux, who overtook me a couple of km’s down the road.
Meanwhile, Donna’s sister has turned off following a red Lancer and pulled over to a stop. Wondering, “what are they doing?†she got out of her car and heads for the Lancer to enquire what the problem is. Imagine the surprise on the face of the unsuspecting woman driving the red Lancer when Donna’s sister flings open the door to ask!  Donna and I laughed so hard when we received a phone call a couple of minutes afterwards, explaining the incident to us, whilst trying to establish exactly where we were.
We spent a couple of hours at the Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs. The cave tour was really interesting and the stalagtite and stalagmite formations are just amazing. Despite the temperature being 9c and pouring with rain, the crazy kids wanted to swim. So who are we to say no? They spent about an hour in the pool, which was heated naturally by the spring to 28c. They were freezing cold when they got finally got out – surfacing only to have lunch. Kids are funny like that. They always come around when there’s food, just like seagulls. Guaranteed.
Heading back to the house, we made the final turn left into the road that leads to the front door, and were stopped in our tracks by a fallen tree. After a quick inspection, we realised that we were not going to be able to get the cars past – even a hire car wouldn’t go there. So, after going to the local General Store and trying to move some branches by hand, the neighbours cottoned on and within minutes it was all hands on deck. I think that before long the entire population of South Arm had showed up, lead by the Fire Brigade, minus their truck. They had apparently been assembled at the station in a meeting and were watching a video. A chainsaw made light work of the clean-up effort and we were soon past the temporary roadblock.
Another great day, everyone is tired and heading off to bed early, ready for another big one. Tomorrow we are heading up the east coast to Bicheno and Coles Bay area. Apparently the beaches are absolutely spectacular. The region is also famous for the seafood and gourmet produce. Hopefully, there is also some vegetarian food (other than veggie burgers) that I can sample along the way. I’m not holding my breath.
Touring Tasmania - Finally We Arrive
November 23, 2006MELBOURNE & HOBART – Monday 13th Nov.  I didn’t get much sleep last night—just a couple of hours. The internal alarm clock is a funny thing. I wake every hour, on the hour when I know that I have to be awake early. It’s actually quite annoying. I’d much rather grab a couple of extra Zzzz’s and feel fresher in the morning. My brother-in-law sent us a text at 4:45am asking “are we there yet?â€, which I thought was rather amusing, although at that hour of the day, its difficult to be too amused. That was it. After that the whole house woke. The dog was first, followed shortly by the kids who were jolted out of their sleep with the realisation that the day they had been waiting for had finally arrived.
Georgia asked me “is it still night Daddy or is it morning?â€
“It’s morning.†I answered.
“Really? Are we going to Tasmania?â€
“Yes darling†I replied.
“YEAH!!!!!â€Â Georgia yelled excitedly.
Now everyone really is awake.
I’m a nervous flyer. It’s totally irrational I know, and I’ve spent a LOT of time in the air so you’d think that I’d be more comfortable. I’m not.
We’re boarding. There’s a mad rush of excitement and frenzied activity to get to the departure gate, as if the plane will leave any second now, without all it’s passengers. I’m not in so much of a hurry. I want to leave the hustle and bustle behind me for a week—starting now!
The Plane is taxiing now and the hostess is running through the emergency procedures. I never watch them anymore. I probably should but I figure that the amount of times I’ve seen this routine performed, I should be able to conduct the demonstration myself blindfolded. Oh, good. I just happened to pop my head up to see where the emergency exits are. I have all the information I need now—I know where to go to get out.
We can move around the cabin now as we’ve nearly reaching cruising altitude. I feel a little more comfortable now—the takeoff is always a bit nervy as you experience the sensations of speed and increased cabin pressure. The air is clear up here above the clouds. It was typically overcast in Melbourne this morning when we left. It had been a balmy, almost tropical morning and I was expecting that it might be a little bit rougher up here.
An announcement. “Portable CD Players and other electronic equipment must now be switched offâ€. They really need to update this announcement and bring it into the 21 century. Perhaps it should be “Personal Media Devicesâ€? Has the iPod and other mp3 players not yet become pervasive?
We’re staying at South Arm about 35km south of Hobart. The house we’re staying in has five bedrooms and two bathrooms, so there is plenty of space for the nine of us. The accommodation is modest—it’s certainly no Tuscan Villa. The amenities are very basic but adequate. We have all that we need, which is somewhere dry to sleep and warm running water for showers. The rest is a bonus.
We just went on a tour around the Cadbury Chocolate factory, which was really interesting. We had to book in before we left, and the only time we had free on our itinerary was the afternoon of the day that we arrived here. When we told the kids where we were going, Georgia asked “will there be Umpa Lumpa?â€Â Donna and I were floored with laughter.
The tour itself was great. The guy running the tour was fantastic with the kids and they all had an absolute ball. Geez, did that dude love his job! And who can blame him?
In the lobby they were running reels of the old TV ads of Prof. Jullius Sumner Miller. Remember that giy? I’d forgotten about those ads, or at lease not associated them with the tour. What a legend. That guy popularised science, or at least made it accessible to many, many kids.
“Sand in a funnelâ€
“Supported by Stringâ€
“Slight pushâ€
“A pattern is formedâ€
“Why is it so?â€
Poetry.
At my excitement about the ads, Donna commented, “You’re like a kid in a candy shopâ€. Well duh!
I’m beat. It’s been a long day after such an early morning. We’re pulling up stumps early and retiring in front of the fire for the night, rejuvenating before further adventures tomorrow.


